18th Edition Consumer Units and Devices
Good morning everyone Jordan here from artisan Electric's welcome back to the channel
So I've got a consumer unit change for you today as I know that my audience do enjoy seeing a good old consumer unit change this is a Hager RCBO SPD board supplied very generously by Gil-Lec so thanks to Gil-Lec for sending that over for me I'll put a link in the description for Gil-Lec website where you can find some great prices on consumer units and loads of other electrical equipment and so I'm gonna be taking out this old MK board so let me show you by the way my lighting is not going to be great today because I've just got my Petzel head torch and usually I I use my LED lens that one which is super bright and I've got a uni light as well that I work with all the time but yeah today we're gonna have to just make deal with this because I just left it charging at home and I forgot to bring it.
I'm gonna flip the camera around and show you the board that we've got here and then tell you about what I'm going to be doing so this is the existing board we've got an MK old 16th edition board main switch some MCB's for the lighting circuits a bell transformer in there in the middle and then our CD section for the sockets and shower it is a DNS system so we've got the main earth they're coming off the sheath of the supply cable we've got a 60 amp main fuse here 16 mil tails Henley block which I'm going to come off with some new tails running into the new consumer unit and I'm just going to mount it in the same kind of place as the existing one we do have a main bond there to the gas already a gas meters just over here so that's fairly straight forward and the water is already plastic incoming water mains so we don't need to bond that so I'm going to get this one off the wall do a bit of a time-lapse on that and then I'm going start mounting the new Hager board I'll show you actually I'll get that open now and I'll show you what I'm going to be putting up.
So in here we have the package from giblet interestingly enough I was like how do you pronounce it is it Gil-Lec, it is Gil-Lec because the family who set it up with the Gilberts so it's Gil-Lec as in Gilbert electrical and they have nice biodegradable cushion packaging which I always approve off so we've got here some Hague a mini our CBO's which are absolutely great they're really compact these are the a da series 32 is obviously the rating so the number changes based on the rating but they're mini our CBO's with no functional earth lead needed so they've only got a neutral lead on them which is great so I've got later our CBO's they sent me some blanks as well which is really good I like these blanks because they actually clip into the dim rail so they are a proper job then they don't just fall out when you nod to them or anything like the little clip in surface blanks so that's really good and this is something new for me now I think Hager have said that they're going to be putting these in a standard now but this is a cable clamp for the tails so that you can clamp the tails as they go into the main switch so that's a great little piece that I'm going to look forward to installing today for the first time I do do a lot of Hager consumer units because basically they are the best quality out there on the market now they're not cheap you know not cheap by any means but they are fantastic quality and they're really nice to fit this is the consumer unit it comes with a little tails entry plate here so you can fit two 25 mil tails and a 16 mil earth and that just clips in they have these kind of rectangular knockouts rather than circular ones you've got a label sheet here and what I like about these is these labels are really good quality they've just revamped their labeling system and they even have labels now for everything, charges for example like here you've got a vehicle charger so that's really useful for me as I do a lot of EVR geing installs.
So here is the board and the part number on this it's quite big one let me just show you part number is VML118 SPD so it's an eighteen way 18 useable ways with a built in SPD and a hundred amp main switch so it's designed for an RCBO setup and this is the Hager design range I think it's the design ten and as you can see they look pretty nice solidly built and you've got a main switch and an SPD built in here the buzz bar is already mounted into the main switch so that's really handy and all you have to do is just clip in the AR CBO's and then wire it up there are these rectangular knockouts at the top which you can get cable entry plates for but you can also just put some grommets strip around for me I've got this trunking coming down into the top so what I'm going to do hopefully to reuse the existing trunk and it comes down and bring the cables top entry for the most part and then probably bring the tails in the bottom right hand side here but we'll see how it goes so once again thanks to Gil Lec for that and looking forward to the fitting this and seeing how it goes in.
Another nice little thing which is new for these Hager boards is they put the torque settings here on the lid now which is great so I've got my very torque screwdriver which I'm going to be using and I know exactly what my torque settings need to be now which is fantastic so we have done an e I CR on this already just to check the readings on all the circuits and make sure that didn't actually need rewiring because that's always a risk when you do consumer unit change that you start testing out and then you realize that the the wiring is actually completely shot and you can't reuse existing wiring and then it turns from a job that was clinic cost you know a few hundred pounds to a job which just gonna cost a few thousand pounds to really rewire the place so fortunately in this property that the the wiring is okay for the most part there we go there was a little bit of vir cable that we found it one or two places so we're gonna rewrite those small parts but in general the wiring it's not too old as you can see from the consumer unit here so we should be able to reuse most of it VIR by the way stands for vulcanized Indian rubber or some people call it VRI vulcanized rubber insulated it's basically rubber cable that after 50 years or however old it is now it just starts to crumble and it's really dangerous can be quite a fire hazard.
So in terms of circuits here we've got cooker here then we've got immersion heater which I believe is not actually in use anymore boiler light downstairs oh sorry I've done that on cooker or immersion heater boiler light upstairs lights downstairs bell transformer RCD then we've got shower in the ensuite we've got a socket circuit which does the bedrooms the landing we've got another socket circuit which does the kitchen utility and garage another one for kitchen sockets and then another one which does the study lounge master bedroom so for ring circuits basically throughout the house which is quite good I mean it's going to be an eight bedroom house but four rings is quite good for a house of this size it's not actually a massive house this it's just that they're going to basically use every single room possible as a bedroom in order to maximize the income on this because it's a HMO house of Multiple Occupation so basically each room is going to be rented individually by a different person and this is a bit of a funny little clunking setup here just gonna pull that off and yeah it's not really it's a bit of a bodge that so you have to try to figure out what to do there to make that neat because I don't really like the fact that the cables are all going behind that gas pipe but I don't really see much of a way around it either to be honest let me know in the comments what you would do and then gonna have to figure out something so I'm gonna just start taking this down pulling all the old wiring out labeling everything up as I go so that I know what circuit what cables do what circuit and I can keep track of everything and then once the old boards out I'm going to tidy all the cables make them neat figure out how to get them into the new board and then mount the new board up and start wiring in to the new board. The main fuse has already been cut the seals already been cut before so it's not sealed so I can just pull that and that will isolate the whole board for me obviously safe isolation is very important so I'm going to go through and just check prove that this is dead before I start working and then I can start stripping everything out and one thing we do usually as well with these is just take the main fuse out of the carrier and then put the carrier back in otherwise you've got these life terminals here which are accessible which someone could accidentally put their finger in or if a piece of wire just slings down from the consumer unit and pops in there that could be an issue so for safety reasons. we just take the fuse out of this so it's dead carrier essentially and then we put it back in just to close up that fuse holder so for those of you who haven't seen these any before this is what they look like so basically that is just a plastic carrier for the fuse and then there's a screw that goes in here which I've just undone which means that you can then open this up like that and inside you've got this BS 88 or BS one three six one fuse which is held by these two copper rings and in order to loosen it up you can just undo these screws here just loosen them slightly so that it releases the clamping on the fuse and then the fuse will just drop out just need to loosen that a little bit more. so this is a 60 amp it's quite an old one it's probably original and tar on there or something maybe something's been leaking out the old fuse carrier before but apart from that it looks in fairly good condition so this is the main fuse that protects the whole installation which means if there's an issue this well it doesn't protect the whole installation. As such it protects the supplier's cable down so that if something major blows in the consumers installation this fuse blows and it will protect that suppliers cable from melting or blowing up or whatever it might do so now what I can do is close this up by that and then just put this back in the carrier so that those live terminals are sealed and not going to be able to accidentally touch those so as I say safe isolation is really important
So what we're going to do is just check our tester to make sure that the tester is working okay and this is using my cue tech proving unit the cue proof 3 then I'm going to check between live conductors so life to neutral neutral to earth life to earth and that's all dead and then we check our tester again to make sure that the tester hasn't packed up in between and that's all working fine so we can now be confident that this is dead and we can start work without any fear of getting an electric shock.
[Music] all right so I've got that board off now and it looks like most of these cables have got some slack on them which is good so I can actually pull those down a little bit I think I'm going to cut these trunking x' off level with the top of that box of that board and then put the new consumer unit of that level these cables there's not a lot we can do to avoid them going behind the gas pipe but what we can do is just clip them neatly so that they're not actually touching the gas pipe so I'm gonna just open that ceiling up a little bit and then clip them all neatly down in a row and then just take them into the top of the board with some compression glands so that the top surface of the board is still IP rated some of them were kind of doubled up in the existing MCB so I'm going to try and separate some of these out into radials as well so that we've got rings and then the extra cable coming off will be a 16 up radial so that'll just tidy things up a little bit yeah so I'm just going to stop hiding all these up first get the board mounted and start putting everything in.
Right so as usual this is getting more complicated than I expected so basically up here the wires the cables aren't that long and they're long enough to go to a board just below that gas pipe there but it's not ideal because it's not really room to put trunking on top of the board and then put compression glands and things like that so I'd end up doing a bit of a bad job if I put it there so I've decided to do is actually bring it down to here I'm going to put an IP box up there with connectors in and then extend all the cables down to here run a nice neat trunking down and do it all properly I've got all these cables out as well there was a double socket there but that is it was all a bit of a mess there's a spur coming off going down through into the kitchen there there was another spur coming off down into the kitchen there and then this is one leg of the Ring and that's the other leg of the Ring. So I've got to sort those out extend them to new consume unit there's this cable as well which is going off they're gonna have to sort that out I'm not sure exactly where that's going off to so yeah I'm just gonna try and do this all properly and neatly rather than trying to fit it up here and it being a bit too tight right so I've gone home and got my uni light work like because it was doing my head in working in the dark and as you can see that it's much better I can at GCU I'm doing now so I've got this IP box right I've got this box here.
so what I'm gonna do is put that up here with din rail-mounted connectors and then I'm gonna basically extend all those cables run a trunking down here where my thumb is into the top of the consumer unit and run everything down from there so that's the plan I'm just going to drill the holes in here now put compression glands in and then start working the cables into it mount it up and get on the wall cables to go up in the top of here so what I'm gonna do is just measure this out properly so that I can kind of evenly spaced the cable entry so that looks nice and neat and everything fits properly right so I've drilled all these holes out 15 holes for 15 cables and now I'm gonna head start putting these compression glands in so jump to time-lapse
So now that we've got our compression glands all in we've got to mount a piece of din rail along here so what I'm gonna do is Mount the din rail on on here and then we can clip our din rail connectors in to that so I've got a length of din rail here but it comes in like a meter length so we've got to cut it short so I'm just gonna measure it pretty much long enough to span the entire width of the box and then I'll cut it here mark it up with my marker which is not working very well there we go and then I'm gonna cut that with my multi-tool [Music] okay so I was using the wrong multi-tool blade and it's just completely trashed my multi-tool well not my multi-tool but the blade so I'm just going to do with a hacksaw.
Okay so now that I've got my din rail to length I'm just gonna fix it down into this plastic box and to do that I'm going to use these little very short screws with a washer there is a slot in the middle of the box and that just enables you to put a screw straight into the plastic and it'll just hold the din rail in place nice and tight now and in the right place so my trunking here and what I've done is I've measured where it needs to go and then I've just drawn a line a little bit on the inside so I'm going to but the trunking up to it and then cut slightly smaller hole on the inside here so that the hole here is just slightly smaller than the size of the trunk to give kind of a a grommet edge so that it's properly sealed and then I'll silicon it around it afterwards so I'm going to just cut that open with my multi-tool and then start mounting the connectors okay so another box is prepared what I'm going to be using is the Vargo didn't mountable connectors and they just click in to the din rail like that and then you can mount the Vargo connectors in them so they're designed for these push fit connectors and then they just go like that so a nice neat way to put in a load of agro so you can have the small two-way ones like that so I can actually do two cables in this one or for the big cables like this up to six millimeter squared we can use the big red ones and that should do a nice neat job hopefully
[Music] ten one two three four five six seven eight nine ten I've got enough to do two four six eight ten twelve fourteen fifteen sixteen cables so I'll have one set spare here but that'll do the trip and then all the outgoing cables will come down here into the trunking down the trunking into the DB [Music] right so I've got the cables dressed down into this box now so they've all gone in nicely and they're all long enough I'm gonna strip them back a little bit where needed put all the cut all the wires to the right length for Earth's leaving on the earth this one here I'm gonna I'm sure I'm gonna do that with that one yeah I might just take it down and bring in the side here or I might just a normal bar go box up there and then extend it down and come across and and into the bottom of the consumer units and the other I need to extend these as well so I'm going to put new earth cables on these this one I think what I might do actually it's putting a block just on the wall here and then run them into there and then run one 16 mil from there down to the consumer unit or to another earth block next to the consumer unit something like that so yeah I'm gonna start dressing these in now and get them terminated.
[Music] so I've got the consumer unit mounted onto the wall now all I'm trying to do now is the trunking I've got this flat 90 here which I wanted in there but actually what happens if I do that is it raises the trunking up slightly into there's a bit of a gap so it would end up the trinket would be like that and there would be about five mil cap which is not ideal so I'm thinking to do is just actually not use this bend just lay it flat on there like that and then just do a kind of a miter joint here so that I get a neat angle it's a little bit more tricky but at least that will avoid the the gap because that gap will kind of compromise your IP rating of the top surface I mean the other thing I could do is do it with the 90 and then just silicon it in so that it's all sealed off anyway but I'm not sure really what's the best option let me know in the comments what you guys would do.
Right so I decided to go with the 90 degree angle here because it's just going to look neater actually when I put the lid on it's gonna bend that down slightly so there will only be a very small gap which I can then fill it with silicon and then in terms of fixings I've just used these penny washers to get a nice solid fixing so I'm just going to measure a bit now up here just to put that piece in fix that onto the wall then I can start getting the cables between the two boards I've used the Hager grommet strip that comes with the board's here the only thing is I did run out so I've used some normal grommet strip there and that one I've knocked it open but it's not actually going to be used so all the cables will come in to these five cable entries here so yeah getting that right so I've got my consume unit mounted trunking pieces mounted now so I'm gonna do is get the our CBO's in here all fit it out so I know where each one's going and then I'm gonna start getting cables in between and then do all the connections so next step so these Haggar our CBO's are really smart looking things and one thing I really like about them is this so you've got this din rail clip but it doesn't just like come down a tiny bit and then you have to leave it out it stays down like that and then you can easily take the whole thing off and what it means is that you can actually put it on even if the busbar still in place so for example if I wanted to that busbar was was fixed in and I wanted to just replace this 16 for a 6 amp or something I wouldn't need to unscrew the whole busbar turn the power off and all that all I would need to do is unscrew this one lever this latch down and then you can actually take the whole thing out while the busbar is still in place and connected to all the other circuit breakers so it's a really nice little feature that as far as I'm aware that no other manufacturers have and all in all these are really nice quality.
Now you'll notice this one is slightly different that is a 40 amp so this is for the electric shower and the 40 amp ones they don't do in a mini RCBO yet and so it does have a function earth that will need to be connected as well and with these I did a consumer unit video while ago where I actually sleeved these green and yellow but you're not supposed to according to the wiring regulations functional earth colour it's cream just like that so that is how it should be it shouldn't have any earth sleeping over it but it will just go and connect into the earth bar along with the Earth from the circuit itself.
These SPD's are pre-wired into the board so you don't need to do anything they have these crimps which are crimped onto the main outgoing side of the main switch and then this cable that just loops up and an earth cable so which comes out for the earth terminal and it's already pre-wired and connected into the earth bar there so they're quite nice and easy you don't need to do any alterations you don't need to do any wiring you just put them in and they have inbuilt overcurrent protection so they don't need an MCB to protect them because the overcurrent protection for these is built into the device itself I'm just going to start by connecting these earth tails into the various sorry in these neutral tails into the various neutral terminals and you don't need to use Farrell's on these because they're already come stamped so it's not necessary to use Farrell''s some people like to do I know but I don't think there's any point in this kind of situation
So just goes like that this functional earth I'm going to tie that across so I don't forget some very long that she so for these ones it's probably worth being Farrell's on because they are fine quite thin me stranded so I'm going to put Farrell's on these ones and it's just a 2.5 mm those connections up loosely and I'm going to go over it with my torque screwdriver later on just when he's in easily connect all those and then I'm stopping the cables are here now and remember into the connector box upstairs so I'm gonna get the six mil in here first for a shower so that's going to go into this 40 amp RCB right here and then I'm just going to work our way along so I'm starting with the heaviest cables first and then work my way along to the end music try and do here each time is just take the incoming cable down loop it around it into the terminals and then out the bottom there so I'm going to do the same with this one this one sort of cooker I'm just going to tuck that in like that loop over to one side and that way everything should be fairly neat there's enough of a gap in between each of these to just do a little loop and that should keep it nice and tidy and looking good because obviously there's a lot of cables going in there so I have to be careful to keep it neat and enable future maintenance to be as easy as possible as well although these are maintenance-free connections you know if ever anyone needs to change anything it should be as easy as possible to access and make changes to the connections [Music] so I'm getting there now and cables going in takes quite some time to do nearly but getting that bit by bit but I just forgot about the playlist clamps so I was like okay how do I fit that and then I noticed that there's a little bit of a design flaw on these because the mounting holes for the cable tails is actually behind the SPD because that's where that's the main switch usually is but they've not changed that on the SPD board so you can't actually mount this behind the main switch so it's a bit silly really, it's the first thing I've actually ever found wrong with the Hager board but yeah I just thought I'd mention it and maybe if Hager watches this they'll sort it out, right so we're nearly there now so all the cables are in connected up in the wire goes down in the trunking down into the consumer unit fairly happy with how it's worked out I'm not really happy with this it looks like a disaster just there's no real nice way to do it neatly unfortunately I tried as best as I could but because of the fact that there was going in like that and serve in at the top with where you would have with normal din rail screw connectors it just makes it a lot more difficult to get them neat so I've tried to sort of loop them over each time but yeah it looks a bit of a mess hey hey it's all going to be hidden in the box and it'll look nice and neat from the outside but I'm a bit dicy doing stuff like that so it does wind me up siding cables in here, just about enough space in the trunk it's surprising how much space these turn earth to take up really and then down into the unit here so what I'm gonna do now is do the tails, going to put a new Henley block on their new flexy tails in looping in here underneath and up into the main switch I've got to extend these bonding conductors paprika and earth block up here somewhere and then just extend the bonding conductors down another main block there to loop the main earth into and then I'll be ready to turn it on and call it because it's getting late just hit five o'clock so if I can I've got another hour before I'm finished, right so I'm pretty much there now ready to turn it on cables are all neatly terminated in the board, trunking running up to the connection box up there everything's clip down the bonding I've extended it and I've just connected it into the board here and then I've just redone them earth for the main thing I've got a new Henry block here for the main tails so that's done so yeah gonna get it on and get out of here for today so this is it with the lid on what do you think let me know in the comments do you like it do you enjoy fitting Hagar boards yourself have you never tried one but you'd like to now let me know in the comments what you think tomorrow I'm going to be like labeling it up and then doing few little finishing touches and then we'll be good to go .